Feeding, Supplements and Water

The short version

• Blue tongues are omnivores. Young skinks eat mostly protein; adults eat roughly half protein, half plants [10].
• Feed babies daily, juveniles 3 times a week, and adults once or twice a week. A portion is about the size of the head [10].
• Keep fruit to 10% or less of the diet at every age [10].
• Wet dog food can be one protein among several, not the whole menu. Sources disagree on how much is safe [10][4][14].
• Dust insects with calcium, add a multivitamin every 1–2 weeks, and keep a full water dish at all times [10][4].

How much and how often

This scheme, from ReptiFiles and a bioactive-keeping guide, is the most widely used in the US [10][16]:

Fruit should stay at 10% or less of the whole diet at every age [10].

Sources disagree on adults. Veterinary sheets lean more plant-heavy: LafeberVet and an Australian exotic-vet practice put greens at 45–60% of the adult diet, the same practice puts juveniles at about half insects, and a 2016 care sheet gives adults about 60% plants and 40% protein [3][4][14]. These vet sheets also feed more often, every 1–3 days, which only works with smaller meals [3][4][14]. A rescue guide for Indonesians feeds adults only 30–40% protein [8]. We recommend a middle path for a pet adult: roughly half protein, half plants, and shift toward more plants if your skink is getting heavy.

Protein options

Rotate several of these [10][16]:

• dubia roaches, discoid roaches, hornworms, silkworms, earthworms, black soldier fly larvae, grasshoppers and locusts
• snails, fresh or canned (blue tongues have crushing jaws built for them)
• boiled or scrambled egg
• lean meats such as ground turkey, plus chicken hearts and gizzards
• an occasional frozen-thawed fuzzy mouse or pinky rat, as a treat
• high-quality wet dog food (see below)
• complete commercial omnivore diets made for blue tongues

Plants

Good everyday choices are collard, mustard, dandelion and turnip greens, bok choy, squash, pumpkin, grated carrot, bell pepper, zucchini and edible flowers such as dandelion, rose and hibiscus [10][4]. For the small fruit share, keepers commonly use berries, fig, papaya and mango; the cited sources do not name specific fruits.

The dog food debate

Wet dog food has been a staple in US blue tongue keeping for years, and it is still controversial with vets.

The case for it (keeper references). High-quality wet dog food, never kibble, is a complete and convenient protein. ReptiFiles suggests cat food for juveniles under 12 months for its higher protein, then switching to dog food, which has more vegetable content and is less likely to cause obesity. Skip fish-based formulas and anything with artificial colors or flavors. Grain-inclusive food is fine if it is high quality and not high in carbohydrates. The idea that grain-free is better is largely unsupported and may even be harmful, though this is still being studied [10].

The case for limiting it (veterinary). An Australian exotic-vet practice calls wet dog food "controversial" and says to keep it to a small portion if you use it. A 2016 care sheet caps canned dog food at about 10% of the total diet and saves cat food for underweight or breeding animals, because it has about twice the protein [4][14]. LafeberVet does not list dog food at all [3].

We recommend using wet dog food as one protein source among several, not the whole protein share. Insects, other whole proteins and greens should carry the diet. Save cat food for underweight juveniles.

Foods to avoid

Never feed [10]:

• avocado, onion, garlic (garlic is a close relative of onion; it is not on the cited list but is widely avoided), eggplant, rhubarb, citrus
• fruit pits and seeds
• buttercup, azalea, daffodil, lily of the valley, tulip, cannabis or hemp leaves
• fireflies (lightning bugs) and scorpions
• any plant you cannot identify

Keep spinach, chard and beet greens occasional because of their oxalates. This is common keeper advice rather than a sourced rule. Never feed wild-caught insects from lawns that may have been treated with chemicals.

Supplements

Calcium. ReptiFiles adds a pinch of calcium at every feeding: dust feeder insects, and sprinkle it on dog food or egg meals. Complete commercial reptile diets do not need extra calcium. With correct UVB, a plain calcium with little or no D3 is the usual choice; ReptiFiles says a skink without UVB needs a supplement high in D3, but every blue tongue should have UVB [10]. LafeberVet suggests calcium carbonate or gluconate weekly for non-breeding adults, with low or no phosphorus, and an overall diet calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of at least 2:1 [3]. Australian vets suggest lightly dusting adult insects 2–3 times a week with a calcium that has no vitamin D or phosphorus [4].

Multivitamin. Use a reptile multivitamin once every 1–2 weeks, following the label [4]. LafeberVet allows a general vitamin/mineral supplement once a week [3]. Do not add vitamins to complete commercial diets or to dog food that is already fortified. Vitamin overdose is a real risk [10][4].

Bee pollen. Optional, no more than a pinch every other meal [10].

Gut-loading. Feed your insects a nutritious diet for 12–24 hours before you offer them [4].

Water

Keep a heavy water dish in the enclosure at all times, always full and clean. Refresh it whenever it gets soiled.

Feeding tips

• Use tongs for wet food. In keeper experience, many bites happen when a skink mistakes fingers for food.
• Wash your hands before handling so you do not smell like food [3].
• Remove uneaten wet food within a few hours.
• Weigh your skink regularly. If weight creeps up, feed less often and shift toward plants.