Housing and Environment

The short version

• Go tall: an adult needs at least 18×18×24 in (45×45×60 cm), and taller is better [1][2][3]. Some guides set the adult minimum at 18×18×36 in (45×45×90 cm) [2].
• Room temperature is usually enough. Heat, not cold, is the main danger [2][4].
• Mist heavily in the evening, then let the enclosure dry out during the day [1][3].
• Keep a day/night light cycle. Low-level UVB is optional but helpful [1][3][8].
• Paper towel is the safest floor for babies; soil or bioactive setups suit adults [3].

Enclosure size

Crested geckos live up in the trees. Height and climbing space matter more than floor space [2][3].

• Front-opening glass with a screen top gives cross-ventilation and keeps the air from going stale and moldy. A screen top is recommended at every age [2].
• Fill the upper two-thirds with cork bark, bamboo, vines and dense leaves (live or silk). A gecko with nowhere to hide stays stressed and is more likely to sleep in poor positions that can lead to floppy tail syndrome [3][7].
• One gecko per enclosure is the safest setup. See the Handling and behavior chapter for why.

Temperature: room temperature, and heat is the danger

This is the species where new keepers most often hurt their animals by adding heat they do not need.

Sources disagree a little on the exact upper limit, so we recommend keeping the warmest spot at or below 82°F (28°C).

Practical heat rules

• Many homes need no heat source at all for most of the year. In a cold winter home, a low-wattage (about 25 W) halogen bulb or small ceramic heat emitter on a thermostat, mounted at the top of the enclosure, is enough [2][3].
• Measure at the top and the bottom with a digital thermometer, not a stick-on dial. Heat rises, so the top perch is both where your gecko spends time and where it can overheat.
• Skip heat mats under a tall enclosure. Your gecko lives at the top, and a mat warms the wrong place.
• Know the signs of overheating. A gecko that looks dark, sits low and out in the open, pants, or soaks in its water dish in a warm room is too hot. Move it to a cooler room right away.

Humidity: cycle it, do not keep it wet

The target range is 60–80% [1][3]. The key is a daily cycle: high in the evening, falling during the day.

• Mist heavily after lights-out, when your gecko becomes active, until leaves and glass are dripping. Mist lightly in the morning only if the enclosure is already dry [3].
• Let it dry back to about 50% (even 40%) before the next heavy misting. An enclosure that stays at 80% or higher all day and night grows mold and bacteria and can lead to skin and breathing infections [3][10].
• Use a digital hygrometer. In a dry winter home with forced-air heat, you may need a second evening misting or a room humidifier [2].

Lighting and UVB

Crested geckos are active at dusk and night, so for years the hobby said they need no UVB. That view has shifted.

• A day/night light cycle is a must. Use a low-wattage daylight LED on a timer for about 12 hours a day, or 14 hours in summer and 10 in winter to mimic the seasons [3].
• UVB is optional if your gecko eats a complete powdered diet that contains vitamin D3 [9]. Some care guides now recommend it for all reptiles, including cresties: a low-strength (5–6%) UVB tube mounted above the screen, giving a UV Index of 1.0–2.0 at the highest perch, with plenty of shady leaves so your gecko can get out of the light [1][3]. Another guide suggests an even lower UV Index of 0–0.7 [2]. Measure with a UV meter if you can.
• What the evidence says. In one study, night-active leopard geckos given just 2 hours of UVB a day at dawn and dusk for 30 days had significantly higher vitamin D3 levels than geckos without it [8]. No similar study has been done on crested geckos, so the honest summary is: beneficial, but not proven essential.
• Match your calcium to your lighting. If you use UVB, dust insects with calcium without D3. Without UVB, use calcium with D3 [9].
• Replace UVB tubes on schedule. Many keepers replace T5 tubes about every 12 months, or follow the maker's schedule; a UV meter tells you for sure (keeper experience, not proven). The visible light lasts longer than the UVB output.

Substrate: simple, naturalistic or bioactive

We recommend keeping babies and new arrivals on paper towel. Move up to a naturalistic or bioactive setup once your gecko is past about 13–15 grams and eating reliably [3].