Chapter 3 of 9 · Gargoyle Gecko Care Guide
Feeding
Disclaimer: I'm not a veterinarian and I don't hold a degree in animal science or animal care. This guide is compiled from the published sources listed in every chapter. For a sick animal, a reptile vet is the authority.
The short version
- A complete powdered gecko diet is the staple, served in a cup in the evening [4][6].
- Gargoyles need more insects than crested geckos: 1–2 times a week for juveniles, once a week for adults [4][7].
- Dust insects lightly with calcium [7][10], and feed them in a dish or with tongs.
- Keep a shallow water dish out, and change it daily [4][10].
- Weigh weekly. Sudden weight loss is often the first sign of illness [12].
The staple: a complete powdered gecko diet
Complete powdered diets are made to be fed on their own, with vitamins, minerals and calcium already balanced [4][6].
- Mix with water to a smooth, ketchup-like consistency.
- Serve in the evening in a small cup or ledge feeder.
- Remove leftovers after 24–36 hours [4].
- Rotate flavors or brands so your gecko does not fixate on just one.
- Skip baby food. Older care sheets list pureed fruit baby food, mixed with a little pureed meat and a vitamin and calcium supplement, as a fallback when no complete diet is available [4][6]. On its own it lacks calcium and protein, and a complete powdered diet is the better choice.
Insects: more than a crested gecko needs
Gargoyles are built to eat animal prey, so insects should be a regular part of the menu [4][7].
- Good choices: gut-loaded crickets, dubia roaches or black soldier fly larvae [4][10].
- Size them right: no longer than the width of your gecko's head, or the space between its eyes [4][10].
- Dust lightly with calcium powder [7][10].
- Mealworms are an occasional treat only [10].
- Feed in a dish or with tongs, not loose on the substrate. Gargoyles strike hard and can swallow substrate along with their food. This is common keeper practice rather than a tested rule.
How often to feed
| Age | Powdered diet | Insects |
|---|---|---|
| Hatchling to 12 months | Fresh every evening, or every other evening if left out for 36 hours [4][7] | 1–2 times a week [7] |
| Adult (over 12 months) | Every 2–3 days, about 3 times a week [4][7][10] | Once a week, or up to twice for a thin gecko or a breeding female [7][10] |
Supplements
A complete powdered diet already contains calcium, vitamins and D3, so insect dusting is a top-up [10]. Sources differ on the details:
- With a complete diet and UVB: a light dusting of plain calcium (no D3) on insects is all you need [7][10].
- Without UVB: some care sheets dust insects with calcium plus D3 at each insect feeding [4][6]; another uses plain calcium most of the time, calcium with D3 once a week and a multivitamin once a week [10]. With insects only once or twice a week, either approach gives a similar amount.
- Do not over-supplement. Too much vitamin D3 is toxic, so do not stack extra D3 products on top of a complete diet.
Water
Keep a shallow water dish available at all times and change it daily [4][10]. Many gargoyles also lick droplets from leaves and glass after misting, so keepers treat the evening misting as part of keeping them hydrated.
Weight: your best feeding tool
Weigh your gecko weekly on a gram scale and write it down. Sudden weight loss is usually the first sign of illness [12].
A healthy adult holds a steady weight, with a rounded (not bulging) belly and a tail base that is neither pencil-thin nor wrinkled. Wrinkled skin and sunken eyes can also mean dehydration [10].