Chapter 8 of 9 · Bearded Dragon Care Guide
New Owner Checklist
Disclaimer: I'm not a veterinarian and I don't hold a degree in animal science or animal care. This guide is compiled from the published sources listed in every chapter. For a sick animal, a reptile vet is the authority.
Bearded dragons are calm, curious lizards from the Australian outback. With the right setup they live 10–15 years and grow to 18–24 in (45–61 cm). Print this page and keep it near the enclosure.
Setup
- Enclosure for life. Sources disagree on the minimum: 4 x 2 x 2 ft (120 x 60 x 60 cm) is the common minimum; ReptiFiles sets it at 6 x 2 x 2 ft (180 x 60 x 60 cm). Larger is better. One dragon per enclosure, always.
- Halogen flood bulbs over a flat basking rock, on a thermostat.
- Basking surface 105–115°F (40–46°C). Cool end 70–85°F (21–29°C). Check with a temperature gun, not a stick-on dial.
- All heat and lights off at night. A room down to 55°F (12°C) is fine.
- UVB tube (T5 HO, such as Arcadia 12% or Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0) right next to the heat lamp.
- Basking spot about 11 in (27 cm) below the tube if it sits on a mesh lid, or 16–17 in (40–43 cm) if it is inside the enclosure.
- Replace the UVB tube about every 12 months (most T5 HO tubes), even though it still lights up. Write the date on it.
- Lights on 12–14 hours a day, plus a bright white daylight strip.
- Humidity 30–60%.
- Shallow water dish, changed daily.
- Floor: paper towel or a washable mat for the first month. After that, tile or fine quartz sand. Never calcium sand, walnut shell or wood shavings.
Feeding
| Age | Insects | Greens |
|---|---|---|
| Baby, under 6 months | 1–2 times a day, as many as it will eat | Fresh every day |
| Juvenile, 6–12 months | Once a day, 5–6 insects | Fresh every day |
| Adult, over 1 year | 2–3 times a week, 3–4 insects | Daily, or at least 3 times a week |
- Insects no wider than the gap between your dragon's eyes.
- Staple insects: dubia roaches, crickets, black soldier fly larvae, captive-bred hornworms. Superworms, mealworms and waxworms are treats.
- Staple greens: collard, mustard, turnip and dandelion greens, endive, escarole, arugula. Squash and carrot only now and then. Fruit only as a rare treat.
- Never feed: avocado, onion, mushrooms, rhubarb, fireflies, or any insect caught outside.
- Dust insects with plain calcium (no D3) at most feedings.
- Multivitamin with D3: twice a week for babies, once a week for adults. Do not double up on D3.
Handling
- Give your dragon 1–2 quiet weeks to settle before much handling.
- Scoop from the side and support the whole body. Never grab from above or by the tail.
- Keep sessions short so your dragon can get back under its heat and UVB.
Call a reptile vet if you see
- Not eating and losing weight. (An adult that eats less in autumn but keeps its weight is likely brumating, which is normal. Losing more than 10% of its weight is not.)
- No poop for a week, a swollen belly, or dragging back legs.
- A soft or swollen jaw, shaky legs, or trouble lifting the body. This is metabolic bone disease: fix the UVB today and call.
- Yellow or brown crusty patches that do not wash off. This can be yellow fungus, which is urgent and contagious.
- Open-mouth breathing, bubbles at the nose, a dark and shrinking tail tip, or swollen gums.
- Book a fecal (poop) check at your first vet visit and once a year to catch parasites early.
Salmonella hygiene
- Wash your hands with soap and water after touching your bearded dragon, its enclosure or anything in it.
- Do not kiss or snuggle your dragon.
- Keep your dragon and its gear out of the kitchen and away from food.
- The CDC says children under 5 should not touch reptiles, and reptiles are not recommended for homes with children under 5, adults 65 and older, or people with weakened immune systems.
- Supervise older kids and make hand-washing a habit.
Sources for this checklist: [1], [3], [4], [5], [6], [7], [11], [14], [46]. See the Sources chapter for full details.