Chapter 1 of 9 · Bearded Dragon Care Guide
Start Here: Is a Bearded Dragon Right for You?
Disclaimer: I'm not a veterinarian and I don't hold a degree in animal science or animal care. This guide is compiled from the published sources listed in every chapter. For a sick animal, a reptile vet is the authority.
The short version
- Bearded dragons grow to 18–24 in (45–61 cm) and usually live 10–15 years, sometimes 20 or more [1].
- Plan on an adult-size enclosure from day one. Sources disagree on the minimum: 48 x 24 x 24 in (120 x 60 x 60 cm) is the common minimum [3]; ReptiFiles sets it at 72 x 24 x 24 in (180 x 60 x 60 cm) [1]. Add a very hot basking spot and strong UVB [4].
- Babies eat mostly insects. Adults eat mostly greens, so expect daily salad prep [5].
- Keep one dragon per enclosure. They compete and can fight [2].
- Most serious problems come from weak UVB, a cool basking spot, untested animals, the wrong substrate, or housing dragons together [7][8].
Is this the right pet for you?
The central bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps) comes from the dry interior of Australia, and nearly every dragon sold in the US is captive bred. They are active by day, bask hard, and many are calm enough to sit on your lap.
They are also a real commitment. A dragon can outlive a dog, and its enclosure needs the floor space of a small couch. Difficulty is moderate: the animal is hardy, but only beginner-friendly if the setup is right from the start.
A bearded dragon is a good fit if you:
- Have room for a 4–6 ft (120–180 cm) enclosure for the next decade or more.
- Are happy to chop greens most days and keep live insects at home.
- Want a pet you can watch and handle in short, calm sessions.
- Can find a reptile vet before you need one.
Think twice if anyone in the home is under 5, 65 or older, or has a weakened immune system. Reptiles can carry Salmonella even when healthy [2]. Wash your hands with soap and water after touching your bearded dragon, its enclosure or anything in it. The CDC says children under 5 should not touch reptiles, and reptiles are not recommended for homes with children under 5, adults 65 and older, or people with weakened immune systems [14][46]. The Health chapter covers simple hygiene.
Quick facts
| Item | Target |
|---|---|
| Adult size | 18–24 in (45–61 cm) nose to tail tip; heavy-bodied [1] |
| Lifespan | 10–15 years with good care; 20–25 years possible [1] |
| Enclosure | Sources disagree: 48 x 24 x 24 in (120 x 60 x 60 cm) is the common minimum [3]; ReptiFiles sets the minimum at 72 x 24 x 24 in (180 x 60 x 60 cm) [1]. Bigger is better |
| Basking surface | 105–115°F (40–46°C); ReptiFiles narrows this to 108–113°F (42–45°C) [1][4] |
| Cool side | 70–85°F (21–29°C) [1][4] |
| Night | 55–75°F (12–24°C); heat off at night in a normal house [1][4] |
| Humidity | 30–60% at the cool end; the basking area may drop to about 10% [1][4] |
| UVB | Required. A 22 in (55 cm) T5 HO tube such as Arcadia 12% or Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0; replace about every 12 months [1][4] |
| Light | A bright 6500K daylight lamp over 75–100% of the length [1]; 12–14 hours a day in the active season is the usual keeper schedule |
Diet at a glance
| Age | Insects | Greens | Insect share of diet |
|---|---|---|---|
| Baby, 0–6 months | 1–2 times a day, as many as it will eat | Fresh daily | 60–80% [1][5] |
| Juvenile, 6–12 months | Once a day, 5–6 head-sized insects | Fresh daily | 50–60% [1][5] |
| Adult, 12 months+ | 2–3 times a week, 3–4 head-sized insects | Daily, or at least 3 times a week | 15–30% [1][5] |
Insects should be no wider than the gap between the dragon's eyes [5]. Fruit is a treat, not a staple [5][6]. The Feeding chapter covers supplements and safe greens.
The five things that cause the most harm
- No UVB, or weak UVB. This causes metabolic bone disease: a soft "rubber jaw", tremors and swollen limbs, mostly in dragons under 2 years old [7].
- A basking spot that is too cool. Below the 105–115°F (40–46°C) target, digestion slows, and a slow gut is one of the main causes of impaction [4][8].
- Atadenovirus (ADV). This virus spreads through feces and is very common in young dragons. It can cause sudden death or slow wasting. Buy PCR-tested animals and quarantine for at least 90 days [7][9].
- Wrong substrate or poor husbandry. Calcium sand, ground nut shell and dehydration are the real impaction risks [8][10].
- Housing dragons together, or in small tanks. Dragons compete for food and basking spots and may fight, and a larger dragon can injure a smaller one [2].
A close runner-up is yellow fungus (Nannizziopsis guarroi), a contagious skin disease that is often fatal. Isolate the dragon and see a vet at the first yellow crust [11].