Chapter 8 of 9 · Leopard Gecko Care Guide
New Owner Checklist
Disclaimer: I'm not a veterinarian and I don't hold a degree in animal science or animal care. This guide is compiled from the published sources listed in every chapter. For a sick animal, a reptile vet is the authority.
Leopard geckos come from semi-desert and dry grassland in Afghanistan, Pakistan, India and Nepal. They are mostly active at night, live on the ground, blink with real eyelids, and often live 15–20 years, sometimes much longer. Adults are about 6.5–8 in (16.5–20 cm) long. Print this page and keep it near the enclosure.
Setup
| Item | Target |
|---|---|
| Enclosure | 36 x 18 in (90 x 45 cm) floor at minimum, 48 x 24 in (120 x 60 cm) preferred, front-opening. One gecko per enclosure; they fight |
| Warm side (surface under the lamp) | 94–97°F (34–36°C); warm hide 90–92°F (32–33°C) |
| Cool side | 70–77°F (21–25°C) |
| Night | Room temperature is fine down to about 60°F (16°C) |
| Heat | Halogen heat lamp on a dimming thermostat. A heat mat under the warm hide is a backup. No heat rocks, ever |
| UVB | Optional but helpful: a low-strength UVB tube (such as Arcadia ShadeDweller or a 6% T5) placed so the gecko is at least 10 in (25 cm) from the tube, 12–14 hours a day |
| Humidity | Dry room air (30–40%) plus one humid hide of damp moss, kept damp at all times |
| Hides | Three: warm, cool and humid |
| Floor | Paper towel for the first month. After that, an arid soil mix is fine for a healthy gecko. Never sand, gravel or walnut shell |
| Water | Shallow dish, fresh daily |
Feeding
- Insects only.
- Babies every day, young adults every 2–3 days, adults (tail thicker than the neck) every 5 days.
- About two insects per inch of gecko, no wider than the space between its eyes.
- Rotate crickets, dubia roaches, mealworms and black soldier fly larvae. Superworms and waxworms are weekly treats.
- Feed the insects good food for a day before you feed them to your gecko.
- Dust every feeding with calcium: no D3 if you use UVB, with D3 if you do not.
- Multivitamin with real vitamin A (not just beta-carotene): once a week for babies, every other week for adults.
- Never leave live crickets loose in the enclosure overnight.
Handling
- No handling for the first two weeks.
- Then five minutes every other day, supporting the feet, body and tail, staying low to the floor.
- Never grab the tail. It comes off.
- If the tail drops, it will grow back. Keep the wound clean on paper towel and feed a little extra.
Shedding
- Your gecko turns pale, sheds overnight and usually eats the skin.
- Check the toes and tail tip afterward.
- Stuck skin on the toes usually means the humid hide was dry. Soften it on damp paper towel or in a 10–15 minute soak in shallow lukewarm water, then gently roll the skin off with a damp cotton swab.
- Never pull dry skin.
Call a reptile vet if you see
- A tail getting thinner, or weight dropping.
- Throwing up food or shed, or runny stool.
- No poop for a week, straining, or a swollen belly.
- A soft or crooked jaw, or shaky or bowed legs.
- Eyes held shut or swollen.
- Black or swollen toes after a shed.
- Head tilt, circling or rolling over.
Weigh your gecko once a month on a kitchen scale and write it down. A steady or rising weight is the best sign that everything is right.
Salmonella hygiene
- Wash your hands with soap and water after touching your leopard gecko, its enclosure or anything in it, including its insects and tools.
- Keep your gecko and its gear out of the kitchen.
- Do not kiss your gecko or hold it near your face.
- Clean the enclosure in a tub or laundry sink, not the kitchen sink.
- The CDC says children under 5 should not touch reptiles, and reptiles are not recommended for homes with children under 5, adults 65 and older, or people with weakened immune systems.
Sources for this checklist: [1], [2], [6], [7], [13], [46]. See the Sources chapter for full details.