Feeding, Supplements and Water

The short version

• Feed mostly weeds, flowers and leafy greens: dandelion, plantain, clover, hibiscus, endive, escarole [1][3][8].
• Never feed fruit, animal protein, dog or cat food, bread or dairy [3][8].
• Keep a cuttlebone in the enclosure at all times [1][8]. Many keepers also dust food lightly with calcium.
• Juveniles eat as much as they want daily; adults get a shell-sized pile once a day [1].
• Offer a shallow water dish always and soak your tortoise regularly in warm water [1][8].

What wild Russians eat

In the wild, Russian tortoises eat grasses, leaves and flowers. That food is high in fiber, low in protein, low in sugar and high in calcium [1][2]. Your goal is to copy that as closely as you can.

Core foods (most of the diet)

These make up the bulk of every meal [1][3][8]:

• Dandelion leaf and flower
• Plantain (the weed Plantago, not the banana)
• Clover, in moderation
• Chicory, sow thistle and mallow
• Hibiscus leaf and flower
• Grape leaf and mulberry leaf
• Rose petals, nasturtium and hollyhock
• Prickly pear pad, with the spines removed
• Grasses and hay, for adults that will take them

In winter, when weeds are hard to find, use grocery greens: endive, escarole, radicchio, turnip greens, mustard greens, spring mix with the spinach picked out, and a little romaine for water [8].

Feed sparingly and rotate

These are fine in small amounts in a varied diet, but never as a staple [10]:

• High-oxalate plants bind calcium: spinach, chard, beet greens and parsley. Older dandelion leaves carry more oxalate than young ones. Do not stack several of these in one meal. Rhubarb leaf should never be fed.
• Brassicas (kale, cabbage, collards, broccoli, bok choy, mustard) contain goitrogens that interfere with iodine uptake. Fed heavily, they are linked to kidney and bladder problems [10]. A little kale or collards in a mix is fine; a diet of collards is not [1].
• Legumes, alfalfa and soy carry saponins and too much protein.

Never feed

• Fruit. The sugar upsets gut bacteria and drives diarrhea and parasite blooms [3][8].
• Tomato.
• Animal protein of any kind, including dog or cat food.
• Bread or dairy.
• Iceberg lettuce as a staple.

Commercial grassland-type tortoise pellets are a topping, not a diet [1]. Some sources say to skip pellets entirely [8].

How much to feed

Juveniles can eat as much as they want every day. Adults get a pile about the size of their shell once a day, which helps prevent obesity [1]. Some keepers feed a less active indoor adult every other day; that is keeper experience.

Russians are gluttons. An overweight tortoise shows fat bulging out of the leg pockets and may not be able to pull fully into its shell. Appetite often drops indoors in winter. That is normal if your tortoise is otherwise bright and alert.

Feed on a flat slate or tray so your tortoise does not eat substrate along with its greens [1].

Calcium and supplements

• Keep a cuttlebone, soft side up, in the enclosure at all times. It also helps wear down the beak [1][8].
• Dust food lightly with plain calcium carbonate about twice a week for juveniles and once a week for adults. Use calcium without D3 when your UVB setup is correct. If your UVB is weak, fix the UVB rather than adding D3, and ask your vet before using any calcium with D3, because too much D3 can be toxic. The frequency here is keeper experience, not proven.
• A reptile multivitamin sprinkled on food now and then is also recommended [1].
• Aim for a diet with roughly twice as much calcium as phosphorus (a 2:1 ratio) [8].

Water

Keep a shallow water dish in the enclosure at all times. It should be no deeper than your tortoise's knees so it can walk in and out easily. Change it daily and disinfect it weekly [1].

Soaking

Soaks are one of the best things you can do for your tortoise's health. Tortoises drink and urinate during soaks, which helps flush the bladder and keeps urates soft [8].

Use lukewarm water, up to the point where the top and bottom shell meet (the bridge) [1][8]. Keepers often aim for about 85–90°F (29–32°C); test it with your wrist or a thermometer so it never feels hot. Stay with your tortoise for the whole soak.