Chapter 8 of 9 · Russian Tortoise Care Guide

New Owner Checklist

Disclaimer: I'm not a veterinarian and I don't hold a degree in animal science or animal care. This guide is compiled from the published sources listed in every chapter. For a sick animal, a reptile vet is the authority.

A Russian tortoise is small, tough and curious, and it can live 50 years or more [1]. Use this checklist to set up right and stay on track.

Home

  • Open-topped pen with solid sides, not a glass tank.
  • Adult: 7 × 3.5 ft (2.1 × 1.1 m) floor. Young tortoise: 4 × 2 ft (1.2 × 0.6 m) to start [1].
  • 6 in (15 cm) of soil and sand to dig in (4 in / 10 cm for juveniles).
  • Humid hide with damp soil on the cool end.
  • Summer: covered outdoor pen with walls sunk into the ground.

Heat and light

  • Basking lamp on a timer and a thermostat, making a 95°F (35°C) spot; cool end 75–85°F (24–29°C) [1].
  • Any night heater (ceramic emitter or heat panel) on a thermostat.
  • Lights off at night; 65–75°F (18–24°C) room temperature is fine [1][2].
  • T5 UVB tube over the warm end, about 14 hours a day in summer and 10 in winter [1].
  • UVB tube replaced every 6–10 months, even if it still lights up [9].
  • Infrared temperature gun and digital thermometer.
  • Remember: sunlight through a window does not count.

Food and water

  • Weeds and greens daily: dandelion, plantain, clover, hibiscus, endive, escarole, turnip and mustard greens, spring mix [1][10].
  • Go light on spinach, kale, cabbage and collards [1][10].
  • No fruit; it can upset the gut and trigger a parasite bloom [8]. No meat, dog food or cat food. No bread.
  • Cuttlebone always in the pen.
  • Light calcium dusting on food.
  • Shallow water dish your tortoise can walk into, changed daily.

Soaking

  • Young tortoise: lukewarm, shallow soak 10–15 minutes, about twice a week [1].
  • Adult: lukewarm water no deeper than where the top and bottom shells meet, about 20 minutes, once or twice a week, more in hot weather or a dry indoor winter [8].
  • Always supervise soaks, and keep the water below the chin.
  • Pasty or gritty white urates mean your tortoise is dehydrated; soak more [8].

Daily and weekly habits

  • Spot-clean droppings daily.
  • Weigh monthly on a gram scale and write it down.
  • Check shell growth seams monthly.
  • Handle low, scooping from below with two hands, and keep it short [1].
  • One tortoise per pen. Two males fight; a male pesters a female [1][2].

Winter plan

  • Decide before fall: keep it awake (warm and lit all winter) or hibernate with a vet's guidance [5].
  • No hibernation in the first year with you, or for a tortoise that is sick, underweight or very small [5].
  • Never hibernate in a garage or shed. Below-freezing temperatures can blind or kill a hibernating tortoise [5].

Call a reptile vet if you see

  • Runny nose or bubbles.
  • Swollen eyes.
  • A soft spot on the shell.
  • Straining, or chalky, gritty white urine.
  • Pink tissue at the tail.
  • No eating for a week while warm.

Find a reptile vet before you need one: arav.org has a directory.

Hand washing

  • Wash your hands with soap and water after touching your tortoise, its enclosure or anything in it [13][29].
  • No kissing, no kitchen counters, no kitchen sink.
  • The CDC says children under 5 should not touch reptiles, and reptiles are not recommended for homes with children under 5, adults 65 and older, or people with weakened immune systems [29].

Last revised November 6, 2026.